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Re: (ET) NEED E-15 Traction motor profile to program Sepex controller (1268)
Interesting that a video about building a diy dyno to test electric motors
is recommended to me by YouTube the day following this e-mail thread.
YouTube: I Built a Dyno to Save $5 on Motors
https://youtube.com/watch?v=4_aPwNdi-PQ
He has some mechanical engineering challenges to resolve yet but gives a
fairly good explanation of what he's built so far
Thanks,
Bill
Dec 28, 2025 8:15:20 AM john <johnreinhard rochester rr com>:
> Hi Chris (& all),
>
> 75% amp limit is good idea. And easy.
>
> Even smarter if I also drilled a dimple in side case of traction motor,
> and installed temperature sensor.
>
> Combine that with David and your suggestion of second controller for PTO.
>
> Temperature sensors on tiller and chip/shred motors would be smart,
> since they get run in warmer weather.
>
> Could even add a third controller for lift, since I don't want to run
> that at 48V.
>
> [LIFT: Ken Olum suggested study of Electric Ox lift solution. Linear.
> strong. but $$$. I have a 12V hydraulic pump assembly from bus wheel
> chair lift that should easily run a small cylinder. The wheel chair
> lift was rated 800 lbs using that pump & 2 cylinders, so 400 lbs max,
> depending on framework. I think 60 amps rating for that pump]
>
> And a 4th controller for my 2 12V LED 500lm each headlights (wired
> parallel), pack tapped.
>
> But a better solution for lights might be add 2 more 12V, and run all 4
> in series (48v, no pack tap).
>
> Of course, 1 dies kills string problem there.
>
> But, overall, no battery taps & uneven pack discharge.
>
> Thank you, group (sadly smaller than 20 years ago), for suggestions, &
> insights,
>
> John
>
> p.s. In my recent info search, I looked through FB Elec-Trak group.
> found mostly pictures, & videos, but did not see technical discussion.
> Is there more info there, that I missed ?
>
>
> On 12/27/25 21:56, Chris Zach via Elec-trak wrote:
>> Same speed would make perfect sense if the armature and the field were
>> both run at the same voltage on a shunt motor. You will just have 25%
>> more power (which could get into "break things" territory if not
>> limited) or 25% less current draw on the wires for the same given power.
>>
>> Actually if you limited the current to 75% of what a normal E15 pulls
>> you would get lower voltage drops across the unit. That could be cool,
>> but it would overspeed the snowblower unless you use a second
>> controller for that.
>>
>> Side note, I've been running my lift motor at 36 volts for a decade
>> now. Works fine, goes up and down quickly (series motor) and with a 10
>> amp fuse I don't have to worry about ripping out the deck's lift point.
>> (Note, running at 36 volts will fuze the internal current disconnect
>> shut. Sucks, but you can let the deck fuse serve that function. Just...
>> don't use a 30a fuse). The motor puling only 1/3 of the amps really
>> makes a difference in lack of voltage drop in the wires.
>>
>>
>> On 12/27/25 21:13, David Roden wrote:
>>> I think it depends on how much you want to optimize things. Bear in
>>> mind
>>> that the later ET PM motors didn't (couldn't) have field weakening.
>>>
>>> If memory serves, and it might not as it's been many years, Mark
>>> Hanson ran
>>> an E15 with full field and 48 volts from his own homebrew PWM armature
>>> controller. I think he got about the same top speed as on 36 volts
>>> with
>>> the factory field weakening. He had a second controller to drop the 48
>>> volts to 36 volts for the attachments. If he's still on the list,
>>> maybe
>>> he'll chime in with comments and corrections.
>>>
>>>
>>> David Roden - 25 Years with ETs
>>>
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