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Re: (ET) Mower motor bearings

Allan, and other ET folks, (see Allen's questions below)
 
No I haven't used the Grainger item referenced.  I chose that unit because it had a pretty good picture.
 
The Grainger split bearing pullers are OTC brand.  The pullers I used at work were some other cheap, imported brand which were marginal when new.  Now that the ones at my work are 5ish years old they are trash and I'll have to buy my own.  (If I can't find good used pullers, I'll probably buy from Grainger.)  The OTC units are good units, but so are most from reputable brands.  I suspect that even the cheap imports will work for the casual motor rebuilder, but I'd buy a good set.
 
The biggest issue is what size puller.  Grainger used to list 5 sizes of split bearing pullers.  I suggest that you take measure the shafts and select the smallest puller that fits around the shafts.  Grainger's second smallest is roughly the equivalent in size to the imported one from work I used on both ends of my mower motors and the small end of the traction motor.  Grainger's middle size is the rough equivalent of the puller I used for the big end of the traction motor.
 
As an added note, some people on this list suggest a torch to remove these blade flanges.  I am fearful of applying heat to my 25+ year old motors, so I really prefer the bearing puller approach.  And a torch is not the way to remove bearings, so pullers are needed anyway.
 
Hope this helps,
 
--- Steven Naugler
--- snaugler earthlink net
----- Original Message -----
From: Allan V
To: elec-trak mailing list
Sent: 4/3/01 1:50:58 PM
Subject: Re: (ET) Mower motor bearings

Steven:
 
Have you actually tried the Grainger puller you listed?  If so, I may
just order that one so I don't have to waste time trying to find one
that fits.  Our mower bearings have never been changed.  I want to
change them this Spring, before it's too late!
 
Thanks,
Allan
 
 
Steven Naugler wrote:
 
>  Dennis, Kevin, and others, On why you cur the head of the bolt off.:
> You don't have to.  I made this tool based on Bill Gunn's verbal
> description, and then took it to work and used the press there.  I
> found that cutting the head off the bolt was not needed, but I
> preferred it to be cut off.  With the head cut off the bolt, the
> flange will slide totally off the motor.  With the bolt head still on,
> the flange stays on the motor until you remove the bolt.  I
> personnally find it more convenient with the bolt off, so to
> perpetuate my prejudices, I without thinking tell people to cut the
> bolt head off. If you want to see what a split bearing puller looks
> like, go to http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/start.jsp , then search
> for Grainger stock number 1A807, and you'll get a nice picture.  I
> find that most small wheel pullers don't fit under the small GE motor
> bearings, but a split bearing puller will.  (The space between the
> commutator and the bearing is too thin.)  I use a hydraulic shop press
> at work, but there are hand pullers that will mount to the split
> bearing puller as well.  These are all items a motor shop should
> have. --- Steven Naugler--- snaugler earthlink net
>
>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From: Pestka, Dennis J
>      To:
>      KevinC927 aol com;elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu;snaugler earthlink net
>      Sent: 4/2/01 7:41:56 AM
>      Subject: RE: (ET) Mower motor bearings
>       Steve;Not being familiar with the split bearing puller may
>      make this a dumbquestion,why do you have to cut the head off
>      the bolt ?ThanksDennis -----Original Message-----From:
>      Steven Naugler [mailto:snaugler earthlink net]Sent: Sunday,
>      April 01, 2001 10:12 AMTo: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu;
>      KevinC927@aol.comSubject: RE: (ET) Mower motor
>      bearings  Kevin and others,You should not need to cut off
>      the motor flange.  Bill Gunn several yearsago gave me the
>      following method of removing stubborn flanges.  (This
>      methodis in the archives.)You'll need a 3 inch long grade 5
>      bolt with the same size and thread as theblade retention
>      bolt, a split bearing puller, and a press.  Your motor
>      shopshould have all of these.  If you use a grade bolt lower
>      than 5, it may bendduring the flange removal.1.  Soak the
>      flange with some type of penetrating oil, preferably
>      overnight.(This step helps, but is not absolutely
>      needed.)2.  Cut off the head of the bolt.3.  Screw the 3
>      inch bolt all the way in to the end of the shaft.  It mustbe
>      fully engaged or damage to the threads in the shaft could
>      result.4.  Install the split bearing puller around the shaft
>      just under flange.5.  Place the motor in the press supported
>      by the split bearing puller.6.  Press on the end of the
>      bolt.  This is where you will damage the threadsin the motor
>      shaft if the bolt with the cut off head is not fully
>      threaded.7.  Be prepared to catch the motor.  When the
>      flange comes loose from theshaft the motor will drop without
>      warning.If you try this techniques, let us know how it
>      worked.  I used it so far on6 stubborn motors and it worked
>      every time.--- Steven Naugler--- snaugler earthlink net
>      <mailto:snaugler earthlink net> ----- Original Message
>      -----From:  <mailto:KevinC927 aol com>To:
>      elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>      <mailto:KevinC927 aol com>Sent: 4/1/01 4:34:26 AMSubject:
>      (ET) Mower motor bearings   Hey guys,My local motor shop has
>      been incapable of removing the blade mounting flange from
>      the motor shaft so that the bottom bearing can be changed.
>      He doesindustrial motor work, so you'd think that he would
>      be able to pull theseoff.  Any
>      suggestions?     <mailto:snaugler earthlink net>
>
>
 

 
--- Steven Naugler
--- snaugler earthlink net