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(ET) transaxle issue
Hi,
I’ve been using my E16 for more than 40 years and noticed that the
transaxle was getting noisy so I decided to tear it apart to see what was
going on. The numerous needle Bearings in the housing seemed good but the
ball bearing hiding behind the needle bearing of the input shaft was bad.
Easy enough to replace along with all the seals, but there was a much
bigger issue that showed itself during the disassembly.
The bearings at the end of the axles were rough as well. Again easy to
replace but since the bearings are a slip fit on the axle shafts, the
inner race of those rough bearings would slip/spin occasionally on the
axle shaft. This caused a groove to be ground into the axles themselves.
So much so that the shaft diameter was about .015” smaller. Luckily I had
a spare transaxle laying around that I could swap shafts with so it was
not a real big issue for me in the end.
I'm just posting this as a public service announcement. I suggest that all
of you take the time to remove the transaxle and slide off the outboard
axle housings to inspect, no, just replace the outboard bearings. If you
intend on using these tractors for a long time, it's a relatively easy
maintenance item. Well once you get the wheel hubs off anyway…
Some helpful info on removing hubs.
- Some later tractors used a long 5/16" screw that had a square drive with
a jam nut. However, earlier tractors use the standard setscrew, (I believe
a 1/4”) that use a hex key. If it's the 1/4” hex, there may be 2 set
screws stacked in the hole. The top one is a jam for the lower screw.
- If a hub is really rusted on, don't use a two or three jaw puller. You
can end up busting the hub flange. Don't ask me how I know… Some guys
have made a puller plate that attaches to the 5 bolt holes of the hub but
I still worry that could break a flange with excess pressure.
- I’ve found that the safest and most effective way is to drill and tap a
pair of 3/8 holes in the hub face and create a puller cross bar that you
attach to the 3/8 holes with some grade 8 bolts. See pic of a rough
mockup. I suggest a fine thread bolt in the center. Heat, penetrating
oil, and an impact are your friends here. If it’s real stubborn, I found
that using an air chisel with a blunt punch in it on the end of the center
bolt can help get things moving once pressure is applied.
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Regards,
Dean Stuckmann
5432 County Road U
Newton, WI 53063-9624
920-901-2288