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Re: (ET) She runs...but



Could you elaborate a little on what you mean by flaky? Stops working at all, only works in forward, blows fuses, etc….

 

AFAIK, the relay coil and contacts are isolated from each other and the chassis. I’m not convinced a chassis fault is the issue since two relays behave the same way. Are all the electrical terminals on the relay and control card in good shape? How about the molex plugs on the wiring harness?

 

I had a tractor I worked on that had marginal terminals in the molex connector that connected the components on the “firewall” drop panel to the harness. Every time I would undo the screws and lower the panel everything was OK. When I screwed it back in place, it would tweak the connector and the reverse relay would stop working. I eventually tracked it to the harness and after much poking and prodding found the issue. You can sometimes use a jeweler’s screw driver to close the female pins up a little to get a better contact, if that’s your issue. I think I ended up just replacing the pins on that particular tractor. Radio Shack sells (or used to sell) a pin ejector tool that will help you get the pins out without damaging the plastic housing. They also sell (or used to) the correct crimper for those terminals.

 

Nick

 

From: stupidemail5 lycos com [mailto:stupidemail5 lycos com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 6:54 AM
To: Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: (ET) She runs...but

 

 

So the ebay throwback machine runs. Cleaned the fuse contacts and lift and lights work, runs forward and reverse, mostly.

 

If I screw the fwd/rev relay to the panel, it gets flaky. I changed it out to a new one, same thing. I will have to check to see if there is an issue with voltage in the frame or something.

Ideas?