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Re: (ET) Motor trouble



Remember,  you should have reduced voltage at starting across the
armature because both resistors are in series.....
L closes at start, then 1A, then 2A....check progression...then, field
weakening starts.
If you are getting 36V at start, the field is not getting power or is
bad.....

A new motor is not cheap....a GE authorized shop is up in Auburn
(assuming you're in Ithaca NY)..
B & F Electric Motors, Inc., 
1593 Grand Avenue
Baldwin, NY 11510
Phone/Fax:516-223-5511

...Walt 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gaarder [mailto:gaarder ecovillage ithaca ny us] 
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 11:50 AM
To: Konstanty, Walter (GE Indust, ConsInd)
Cc: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: RE: (ET) Motor trouble

I did check the armature volts - full 36 V. I'll check the field just to
be sure. And no, I don't presume to open up the motor myself. 
Unfortunately, my local electric motor guy is out of business, so it
looks like I might have to send it somewhere.  Any suggestions?  Or
should I just get a replacement?

thanks,

Steve Gaarder

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009, Konstanty, Walter (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote:

> You should still check the field volts when started.
> Also, armature volts.  It may be lack of L contactor pickup.
> Brushes usually don't disconnect at once but it could be.  You need to

> pull the motor apart to inspect/replace them which is not all that 
> hard but putting it together takes some skill as you have to assemble 
> the motor endshield while pulling the brushes back to move them far 
> enough apart to slide the rotor in.  I've pulled them apart, blown 
> them out, inspected and replaced brushes.....but I've also had 30 
> years at GE working on them.
>
> If you have a small local shop, it may be better for you to take it 
> there and watch them do it....ask for a quote or fixed price to 
> check/inspect....don't let them hi-pot the windings.
>
> Make sure the control is not the problem first unless you want to 
> check the motor out anyways.
>
> ...Walt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Gaarder [mailto:gaarder ecovillage ithaca ny us]
> Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 9:36 AM
> To: Konstanty, Walter (GE Indust, ConsInd)
> Cc: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: RE: (ET) Motor trouble
>
> Thanks for the suggestions.  The current draw is very small, so I 
> figure that the problem is not the field.  Also, the one time I had a 
> field supply failure, the motor did turn, but ran fast with little
torque.
>
> No smoke or any heating that I've noticed.
>
> Could this be a problem with the brushes?  Can they be changed without

> pulling the motor?
>
> thanks,
>
> Steve Gaarder
>
> On Mon, 26 Jan 2009, Konstanty, Walter (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>> Basic motor troubleshooting:
>> - drive motor has shunt field (2 smaller wires)
>> - power must be applied to shunt field to run and voltage is stepped 
>> with large contactors to the armature (2 larger leads)
>> - finger relay reverses shunt field polarity and motor direction for 
>> F-R
>> - if power gage is pegging and motor not turning, field is bad or 
>> probably not getting power from relay (those finger relays are 
>> notorious for sticking or arcing)
>>     check relays, sand connections, make sure they are working.
>>     Shunt field is approx 17 ohms
>> - VR-1 on card 3 (reddish disc) may also be burned up....it absorbs 
>> voltage when relay reversed for direction
>>
>> So, make sure field has 36VDC when starting....monitor field and 
>> armature voltage.  If motor is bad, I'd suspect armature is shorted 
>> or
>
>> grounded and you'd smell it.  Pulling motor is not fun so check 
>> control first which is 95% of normal problems on E15.
>>
>> ...Walt
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
>> [mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of Steve 
>> Gaarder
>> Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 9:09 AM
>> To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>> Subject: (ET) Motor trouble
>>
>> Our E-15 is running intermittently.  There seems to be voltage on the

>> two large motor connections when it's not running,so I figure the 
>> problem must be in the motor.  Am I overlooking anything?  If not, I 
>> will pull the motor and take it to the local motor shop.  Is there 
>> anything I should tell them about these motors?
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> Steve Gaarder
>>
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>