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Re: (ET) Overheating Problem



I even remove my wedding ring - only time it's allowed!

At 12:25 PM 11/5/2008, Barry wrote:
A Speidel® Twist-O-Flex® watch did a similar thing to me in the 70s. I still have two small scars that were formed on either side of the band where the short occurred. I learned a very valuable lesson that has stayed with me all of these years.
 
 
Barry Elkin
 
 

From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu [ mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of RJ Kanary
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 11:57 AM
To: Max Hall
Cc: Elec-trak
Subject: Re: (ET) Overheating Problem
 
         I made the mistake of NOT doing that ONCE in 1975. NEVER again. A Speidel® Twist-O-Flex® watch band must have two or three ohms of resistance at 12 volts, judging from the long lasting burn scars I had on my wrist.............. Smelled bad, too.

RJ

Max Hall wrote:
"...remove your wristwatch." This may be the greatest discussion board there is!
On 11/5/08, RJ Kanary <rjkanary nauticom net> wrote:

        REAL good chance. Does the Fuel Level gauge indicate any life?If it doesn't, remove your wrist watch. Then remove the access cover for the Control Cabinet.Feel around the Power disconnect until you find the copper disc inside of the PD. Rotate it with your fingers and watch the Fuel Level Gauge. Does it twitch and indicate signs of life now? If so, order the new, much more trouble free replacement from Harold Zimmerman or any of the other fine purveyors of Elec-Trak® parts.

RJ



soltrak wrote:
Well, I seem to have narrowed the overheating problem to the one battery wire. There was a bad connection at the wire lug. I replaced the wire, which runs from the second battery in front to the power disconnect switch.  NOW the drive motor won't run!!  I switched off the Power Disconnect switch when I changed the wire. Is it possible the switch is faulty? When I try to put it in reverse or forward, the relays switch but nothing happens. 
 
 
JL
On Nov 2, 2008, at 11:12 AM, RJ Kanary wrote:


For those of you that are playing at home......................

Klixon® is no longer under the TI umbrella.They've been spun off. so, after tracking that down, I found this.

http://www.sensata.com/products/controls/tcb-c.htm

     So if you feel compelled to set up your own testing station, those are the specs.You can track down the traction motor external Klixon® by following the appropriate links. A bit more digging should yield the specs for the Klixon® found in the field of the traction motor.

Enjoy. :)

RJ


RJ Kanary wrote:


       It is the over current / over
temp protective device. Brought to

you  by the nice folks at Texas Instruments some time before WW

II.Testing would require knowing the rating, and the amount of time

required for it to open at 100% of rating, 125% of rating, etc.,
plus a 

derate for temperature.{Opens sooner the hotter it
is.}

 

       Not having any of that data in
front of me, I look at the model

number of the Klixon®. In that number is usually the rating. Taking
my 

trusty Cornell / Dubilier Battery Eliminator,[Capable of 25 VDC @30A

max.] I select a current output to approximate the rating on the

Klixon®. Then connect the leads, stand back..........turn the power
on 

and watch ! If the Klixon opens within a second or two at room

temperature, I declare it good and return it to
service.

 

       Any time I've seen a mower
motor with the armature melted down,

the Klixon has failed this test. Bear in mind, I'm not an EE, nor do
I 

portray one on
Television..........................

 

RJ

 

 

soltrak
wrote:

 

What exactly is the Klixon on the mower motor and how would you go

about checking
it?

 

JL

On Nov 1, 2008, at 1:31 AM, RJ Kanary
wrote:

 

   

     Excessive current draw will cause
overheating.A few moments with

an inductive ammeter would steer you in the correct direction. Poor

connections = high resistance = lotsa heat. That's another avenue

that needs to be explored.Another road to take is this............do

any of the Klixons® on the mower motors ever
open?

 

         The motor that
takes the most abuse is usually the center

one. On the front mount mowers especially since the deck gets bent

and the front part of the blade's path is closer to the ground.If

THAT Klixon® fails closed, under those conditions wiring and

terminals will pay the
price.

 

RJ

 

soltrak
wrote:

     

Hello,

 

 

      When mowing one of the front battery
wires on my E12s gets so 

hot at the terminal that it melted the thin plastic safety cover

that  was touching it. I noticed several other battery tops
getting 

warm  also, but this one wire gets hotter than the others. What

could be  the
cause?

 

Thanks,

 

JL

 

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